(Not) Climbing Bryan’s Mountain – 2021

Every summer I post an excerpt of a journal I keep called Climbing Bryan’s Mountain.  But climbing the mountain most people call Bell Rock has been harder the last three years.  My first climb was delayed by weeks because of, in 2019, a hard re-hab job, then, in 2020, because of our pandemic and my wife Linda breaking her ankle.  But this year I didn’t climb it at all.  Not once.

The Video below compresses our eight-day stay in Sedona, AZ, this summer down to about 2 minutes/15 seconds, but the picture that stays on the screen longest is a white board we found at the Ranger Station just two miles south of our place.  This year Mike and his boys and his girlfriend Zoe joined us (Josh did, too, later), and the Ranger Station is a beautiful introduction to the Sedona area.  I also wanted to buy a Red Rock Pass so we could park at the various spots we wanted all of us to visit.  “Can’t buy one,” the woman at the reception desk said.  “What?” “Everything’s closed.” “What? Can’t go to Bell Rock? Red Rock Crossing?” “No, I’m afraid not. It’s the drought and the extreme wildfire danger.  There’s thousands of acres burning just over there and there and there,” she said, gesturing almost 360 degrees. “You can come back here behind the counter and take a picture of this board telling what’s open and what’s not.” I did, it’s above, and all the time I just kept thinking, “What?”  We’d kept track of the weather, which had kept the high country in extreme heat for days, almost rivalling Phoenix’s valley heat.  But that heat wave had just broken the day before we arrived on Saturday.  However, at 6:00 p.m. Friday the wildfire danger had increased so much that much Federal Land, including all of the Coconino National Forest, had been shut down.  The beautiful picture I took of Aaron and Grace at Red Rock Crossing kept flashing through my mind, and Linda and I grew sad that we’d been shut out of all that beauty.

There was plenty to do, though.  The video shows our first stop at an In-N-Out burger where Maddy pasted their sheet of stickers all over his face.  The Ranger Station with its white sign board. Catching lizards, which run everywhere at our place.  (We were in the pool lots, too.)  A visit to Tuzigoot National Monument. The Out of Africa wildlife park, where it’s always a treat when the giraffes come by your open-air trolley. Hiking at one of the only two State Parks still open, Red Rock State Park.  Pulling over at one of the area’s great overlooks on our way to hitting The Canyon, and hiking down Bright Angel Trail a ways.  Then Jerome, the arts city clinging to a mountainside, where, watching a potter do his thing, Maddy said, “I didn’t know you could do this for a job!”  The video ends with us going down Highway 17 back to Phoenix—and seeing a wildfire break out right in front of us.  Mike and Zoe had a flight out early next morning, so we hoped the wildfire wouldn’t jump the highway, as one had done last year.  Shortly after we got to the airport ourselves, Mike sent a video of it RAINING in Sedona.  “You’re part of a huge celebration,” I texted back.  July and August is monsoon season, but things probably won’t open up til September 1st, even if it’s a great monsoon.

Not being able to take all of us up to Bryan’s Tree on Bryan’s Mountain was a deep loss for me.  In Part One of my 2019 excerpt, I put a picture that Mike had taken of Bryan when they had climbed the mountain nearly 20 years ago. I wrote in a recent piece about the increasing politicization of climate change.  We wrangle now more than ever, when, as more and more people are saying, we need to stop arguing so much about what causes climate change and just deal with the effects right in front of our face: colds that are colder, hots that are hotter, droughts that are drier for longer, rains that pour down more floods, California and Arizona burning, while Louisiana and the Gulf drown.  It’s that cliche: the new normal.  Will the wilderness, the great hikes, the great vistas all around Sedona and the West just have to be closed more and more often?

In my 2020 excerpt I focused on the bumper crop of pine cones Bryan’s Tree had produced that year, but wondered if it was a sign of distress, not health.  This year there were trees and bushes dying all around us in the heat and drought.  I wonder if his tree has survived at all.  I’ll have to wait and see.

Posted in Family, Music & Media Podcasts, Social Change | Tagged , | Leave a comment

“Lift Every Voice:” Juneteenth, 2021

This article on Juneteenth 2021 is the Lead Post on a series of articles and videos on Juneteenth.  Read and watch about Juneteenth 2022, 2023, and 2024.

 

The VIDEO below shows the singing of “Lift Every Voice and Sing”—the Black national anthem—at this year’s celebration of Juneteenth in Aurora, Illinois, June 19th, 2021.

It took more than 2 ½ years after Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation on January 1, 1863, for it to be fully enforced, dependent as it was on the progress of Union troops.  On June 19th, 1865, Union Army major general Gordon Granger arrived in Galveston to announce General Order No. 3, enforcing freedom of enslaved people in Texas, the last state of the Confederacy with institutional slavery.  June and 19th = Juneteenth, which has been celebrated here and there across the United States, especially in the Black community since 1865.  It took nearly 156 years longer for it to become a national holiday, when, on June 17, 2021, President Joe Biden signed it into being.

I was anxious to go to Aurora’s celebration this year, the first year Juneteenth went national, so to speak.  A reporter who knew my son Rick stopped us as we approached MLK, Jr. Park and asked us why we were there and if we knew what Juneteenth was.  Nine-year-old granddaughter Josie acquitted herself pretty well, telling what she knew of it, but none of us knew exactly how long Aurora’s celebration had been going on.  At least five years, we were sure, maybe even ten.  But it turns out that it’s been 20 years, and probably one of the oldest celebrations in Illinois. Ricky Rodgers, now executive director of African American Men of Unity (AAMOU), was one of the founders those decades ago, and when we arrived under the main tent he was doing DJ duties.

Son & grandkids with Bill Foster and Ricky Rodgers, who helped found Aurora’s Juneteenth celebration 20 years ago.

Earlier in an ABC7 news interview he had said, in part, “The way we celebrate Juneteenth in Aurora, it’s not to shame whites but to gather the whole community together to have a good time and embrace the heritage. It’s in the spirit of Sankofa.” Sankofa is most often symbolized by a bird whose feet face forward but whose head turns back to retrieve a precious egg.  “Se wo were fi na wosankofa a yenkyi,” goes a Ghanaian proverb: “It is not wrong to go back for that which you have forgotten.”

Aurora is one of the most diverse large cities in the U.S., and a diverse crowd showed up, along with some dignitaries Rodgers announced an hour after we got there: the mayor (Richard Irvin), our Congressman (Bill Foster), several aldermen, and others associated with AAMOU. Then he introduced Barnetta Mills, “our songstress,” he said, who asked us to stand for “Lift Every Voice and Sing.”

The Sankofa bird

James Weldon Johnson’s words and his brother J. Rosamond Johnson’s music make “Lift Every Voice” the deepest, most unsparing anthem ever, I believe.  (I’ve been honored to sing and play it several times.)  It should be one of our signal guides as we enter our current discussions on race.  We need long, sustained discussions, ones that don’t cop out, claiming race fatigue.  Because, really, it’s taken us this long to begin understanding as a nation the things the Civil Rights Movement of the 50’s and 60’s  was saying to us.  We haven’t been discussing race and racism at the depth we now seem to be for that long: 3-4 years at the most.  If we’re tired of talking about it, think how tired people are who have had to suffer under racism for the 156 years it took for Juneteenth to become a national holiday, plus the 300 some years before that when the first enslaved people began their horrific Atlantic crossings.*  One of the deepest aspects of “Lift Every Voice” is its emphasis on endurance and what has been endured: “We have come over the way that with tears have been watered / We have come treading our path through the blood of the slaughtered.”  In early February 2020, just before the pandemic shut us down, I spoke on a panel on race, saying that IF we worked really hard we might see some significant progress in 40 to 100 years.  40 years is perhaps too hopeful.  100 years seems a minimum number that we ourselves must endure to be true.  True to what?  “Lift Every Voice” gives us the answer in its final two lines: “Shadowed beneath Thy hand, may we forever stand / True to our God, true to our native land.”

*  See Michael Guasco’s article in Smithsonian Magazine, “The Misguided Focus on 1619 as the Beginning of Slavery in the U.S. Damages Our Understanding of American History,” with it’s subhead: “The year the first enslaved Africans were brought to Jamestown is drilled into students’ memories, but overemphasizing this date distorts history.”

Posted in Music & Media Podcasts, Social Change | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

IZ (“Traces”): A Poem for the Uighurs

In 2006 I spent six weeks as a scholar/student at the University of Hawaii, Manoa, in a National Endowment for the Humanities seminar.  It was my second time at Manoa, my first being in 2001.  Linda visited for a couple of weeks then and cried on the way to the airport for our return flight. “Dirty work,” a common refrain there was, “but somebody has to do it.”

In 2006 my focus was on the Uighurs, predominantly Muslim, and China’s fifth largest recognized ethnic minority, comprising about .75% of the population.  All ethnicities are dwarfed by the Han Chinese, who comprise over 90%.  Still, in China, .75% is a lot of people: well over 10 million.  Most reside in the far northwest, in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, which China took over in 1949 during what is often referred to in Chinese historiography as the “Peaceful Liberation of Xinjiang.”  A Chinese seminar colleague, now a distinguished professor of philosophy and law, quipped that the Uighurs were to China what the blacks were to the U.S., while the Han were like uptight whites—a playful comment about a situation that seems to be growing more terrifying each day.

Depiction of writer Abdukhaliq

As China developed the region and encouraged more Han Chinese to move there, the word “peaceful” began to fit less and less as tensions between Han and Uighur intensified, simmering to just under war-like in the 2000’s.  Yet even the cover of Newsweek’s international edition for April 23, 1990, (upper left) shows the buildup was at least a decade earlier, if not many decades.  That cover was the third slide in my seminar presentation, which, before turning to Uighur culture, presented findings from just one-year-old sociological surveys.  Surprisingly, in 2005, when asked about the state of Uighur/Han relations (Good, Fair, Poor, or Bad), 39.5% of Uighurs thought they were Good, compared

Writer Abdurehim Otkur

to only 18.6% of the Hans.  When asked whether they were proud to be a resident of Xinjiang, 91.3% of Uighurs were proud and only 1.7% ashamed, while for the Han only 70.2% felt pride, while 9.4% felt shame.  I highlighted other areas—income, religion, language, and whether respondents felt China was a “unified multinational state”—and the overall conclusion was: 1) Uygurs (the spelling most surveys used) manifest strong local and national identity; 2) There was deeply rooted mistrust between Uygur and Han; 3) The two groups express prejudices against each other; and 4) There was significant skepticism about effectiveness of government policies in maintaining healthy ethnic relations.

Turning to Uighur culture I found stories and poems indicating a deeply rooted sense of oppression and a mistrust of government, especially in the stories of Bogu Khan, Ephendi, and the “Grand Domesticator,” the arch enemy of the “Nomad.”  I’ll share some poems soon.

At a pro-Uighur rally, Hong Kong, 2019

In a report titled “The Targeting of Uighur Muslims in China,” the education resources group Facing History and Ourselves reports that, “Since 2000, Uighurs have protested unfair treatment by the majority and multiple riots have broken out, including a riot in 2009 in which 200 people died. Claiming this violence was caused by separatist-fueled terrorist groups, the Chinese government has responded in recent years with widespread repression targeting the broader Uighur population. The government began implementing surveillance and policing tactics against the Uighur in 2016 that arguably has made Xinjiang “the most heavily monitored place on earth.” Uighurs are banned from fasting during Ramadan, naming their children with traditional Muslim names, and wearing “abnormal beards.”

And people have disappeared.  According to a November 2018 NPR report “Families Of The Disappeared: A Search For Loved Ones Held In China’s Xinjiang Region,” “…a Kazakh rights organization called Atazhurt, has collected more than 1,000 testimonies from ethnic Kazakhs and Uighurs whose families have disappeared into a network of internment camps across the border, a few hundred miles away in the Chinese region of Xinjiang. They’re among an estimated million people belonging to mostly Muslim ethnic minorities who have been detained.”

And now in 2021 there is a book by Gulbahar Haitiwaji, Rescapee du Goulag Chinois (Surviving the Chinese Gulag).  In January 2021 The Guardian published a long interview with her and about her book.  The title is “‘Our souls are dead’: how I survived a Chinese ‘re-education’ camp for Uighurs,” with the subhead being, “After 10 years living in France, I returned to China to sign some papers and I was locked up. For the next two years, I was systematically dehumanised, humiliated and brainwashed.”

Looking back 15 years, following all the links above and many more, anxious for the Uighurs and so many others facing so much oppression, I remember sharing two “Uighur” poems with my NEH colleagues.  Abdukhaliq writes:

The situation is grave,
We must liberate ourselves from exploitation.
Those who are weak,
Are those with the most enemies.
Illiteracy is the path of the weak.

And there is Abdurehim Otkur’s “IZ,” meaning “Traces.”

If the sand blows hard,
Even if the dunes shift,
They will scarcely bury our trace.
From the route of the ceaseless caravan,
Although the horses grow terribly thin,
Our grandchildren, our great grandchildren
Will most assuredly find
This trace one day,
Without question.

Go to the Teaching Diversity main page.

Posted in Social Change | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment